Dissolved Clothing

Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week
Jef Montes – Friday 15 January 2016

‘Resolver’ is the name of Jef Montes’ fall/winter 2016 collection.

Blue lighting lit up the whole space before the show started, blue ‘boxes’ laid at the beginning of the catwalk. When the music started, models appeared and took place on these ‘boxes’ while two others threw water towards them. Their clothing was wet and slowly torn into smaller streaks of fabric till no fabric at all during their journey walking down the catwalk. This gave a beautiful effect and an almost complete naked view of the models. Some of the models walked down the catwalk holding a balloon filled with water, as if they were pregnant, and they let it burst halfway. One of the models during the show was actually pregnant and showed her belly with pride.

What they were wearing?

Jef Montes is known for his use of new types of materials for every collection. For this collection he used a material that felt like glue, which dissolved when it mixed with water. The pieces the models were wearing were grey, gleaming and loose around their bodies, like draped pieces of clothing. Everything was one piece and the models were naked underneath.

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What is the message?

This collection is a critical response to the fast and on-going fashion world these days. It’s a ‘solution’, literally; the clothing dissolved, for today’s fashion that apparently died. What is fashion nowadays, what is still standing when it comes to the fashion industry?

Personally, I thought this fashion show was about women. Carrying new life insight them, an innocent creature with no idea what the world looks like, no expectations or judgments about it. Carrying a child inside a body is a humongous responsibility and privilege to have as a woman. I thought we were pulled back to the beginning of life, during this show, because the world around us is evolving extremely quickly, technology and fashion as well, are on-going processes.

Without clothes, we’re all the same. We’re equal, especially with no material objects, everybody has a body, a mind and soul, this is here where it all begins, right?!

Photos: Judith Kutschenreuter

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Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Shows: FUTURE GENERATION

The following post is written on July 14th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Jazz Kuipers and Jef Montes’ fashion shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015.

The ‘Future Generation’ show contained two parts: two catwalk shows and an exposition of five different designers. These designers gave their personal vision on the future of fashion, creating unique worlds where fashion is as serious as it seems relative.
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White lights and fog appeared at the beginning of the catwalk. Dark music began to play when the ‘warriors’ of Jazz Kuipers appeared one by one out of the fog with a truculent look on their faces. Jazz Kuipers showed her collection ‘TWO’. The male models were dressed in black architectonic clothing with a lot of leather. They looked raw and tough. Some of them wore face-concealing masks. Our feeling of the future after seeing this show is dark and truculent.
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A boat sailing through the wild ocean fighting against the rough waves appeared on the screen while shrieking, irregular sounds were screaming through the room. It felt like we were on a boat floating through the wild ocean that seemed to sink. The first model walked down the catwalk, dressed in a white dress with a white balloon in her hands. The balloon cracked and the water splashed over her dress. This is where the show began. Jef Montes showed his ‘Velero’ collection, which means sailboat in Spanish. The clothing was mostly white, but some of the items were black and blue. The silhouettes were organic and had imperfect details.
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White can mean the end of life but it can also be seen as the beginning of a new life. Water was clearly an important subject during this show. Water is unpredictable, just like our future, and water could be one of our dooming scenarios in the future. Jazz and Jef showed us architectonic fashion versus organic fashion in one night. Are we ready for this future?

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Show: FROM A WILTED TO A BLOOMING FLOWER

The following post is written on July 14th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Maria Cle Leal’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015. Maria is a designer from Spain and her show was a-ma-zing!

The presentation of Maria Clé Leal during the Mercedes-Benz Fashionweek Amsterdam showed a perfect transition from spring to summer. With the performance of a classic dancer, Maria showed that fashion is related to any other form of art and that they can support each other in a story.
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The story of Maria started with darkness and a sober feeling. The sound of broken glass and a wheezy person filled the dark room. Dark clothing, thick fabrics and body covering outfits past the runway. The silhouettes of the first outfits looked like closed, wilted flowers. But under the sound of raindrops, the flowers began to bloom. They grew into beige seeds and bright pink flowers. The classic ballet dancer performed beautifully and showed the audience a withered flower, broken and fragile during the cold. But she bloomed as the show continued, the season changed and the weather got better.
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It looked like a ray of light awakened the life from within the core of the flower. The thick fabrics changed into light and flowing silhouettes, which breathed summer. Is this symbolic for a withered flower in the wind, like a dandelion?

The concept of the show was so clear and perfectly worked out in detail. The show sends a positive message into the audience: you need to plant and invest to be able to grow. Our lives could be influenced by so much darkness. It is our job to find the brightness and stimulate the fragile growth of a flower during changing seasons.

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Photos taken by me.

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Show: WHITE AFRICA

The following post is written on July 11th, 2015. I wrote this post for the website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Zyanya Keizer’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015. It was an amazing show.

All white everything in African style. The catwalk was covered with white flour and above the catwalk dangled three airy canvases. Amidst this white ambiance stood just one dark African model. She was covered in a strong structured white dress with her head behind a mask.

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In this extraordinary setting the other models were different from the African one. The models were white-skinned and their foreheads were painted in orange. Their hair was braided and coloured white. The collection of Zyanya Keizer consists of light and earthy colours, like white, brown and grey. Notable was the wide variety in shapes and materials. Beads, little balls and strings graced the garments. There was a clear contrast between soft loose-fittings and hard structured pieces. In many of the garments organic forms were visible. Zyanya does often take inspiration from the connection between man and nature and this characteristic was clear to see. This collection was definitely based on influences and the improbability of Mother Nature.

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After seeing the white models in an African setting it became clear that Zyanya wanted to pay attention to a social problem. A major social problem in Africa is the aversion that prevails against albinos. According to many Africans an albino goes against nature. Today the white skin models occurred as the African albino. Our nature can be improbable and this improbability was visible today, the albinos were in the majority.

With this collection Zyanya will support the African albinos. Next week there will be an auction where different garments will be acutioned. The money will be given to the Foundation for African Albinos.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion Show: LINGERIE ACTION ROLE PLAYING

The following post is written on January 28th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Pretty Wild Lingerie’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

The show started, big white letters appeared on the screens saying: ‘Pretty Wild lingerie’. Thrilling music was pumping out of the speakers. The first model showed up on the catwalk. Dressed in a black with pink-laced corset and black with pink-strapped knee tights, full of confidence she walked down the catwalk. 

‘The concept is simple: it’s all about emotion and feelings wrapped up in a beautiful box.’  

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The collection was an equal mix between romantic pieces of lace combined with sexy, edgy leather details. This mix exactly subscribes the way woman would like to feel nowadays. Women don’t want to be seen as sex symbols, but on the other hand they still do want to look attractive. This collection symbolized the perfect balance.

By wearing this kind of lingerie a woman can empathize better with some kind of sexiness she want to act like. The experience than becomes more real and increases their self-esteem. This is the reason why wearing several lingerie garments perfectly fit in with the experience economy.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion Show: TROUBLE IN PARADISE

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Dennis Diem’s fashion show, one of my favorite shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

We all know Adam and Eve, but do you know Lilith? She was the first woman God assigned to Adam. God created Lilith just like Adam from earth. However, when they got intimate, Adam wanted Lilith to lie underneath him, which means, that she would submit to him. She refused, because she was equivalent to Adam. And then there was trouble in Paradise.

Image: Peter Stigter

During Dennis Diem’s fashion show Lilith, the nightly demon, appeared floating on the moon while the models walked down the catwalk. The collection was fully based on the story of Lilith and therefore also with the earth and feminism. The silhouettes remind us of the style of the perfect 1950’s housewife, contrasted with wide-hemmed masculine pants and tuxedo jackets. On the garments we saw the rainbow elytra’s of a beetle which was embroidered in a snake scale pattern. These snake scales refer to Lilith, because she is symbolically rolled up like a snake in our unconscious. The flowers on the suits and dresses were made from pearl shells. These pearl shells refer to Lilith because she decided to flee from Paradise away to the waters of the ocean. Where she still lives today..

Image: Peter Stigter

The women has been “underneath” for thousand years. She is trapped in a role imposed by cultures and religion. This made the male and female fall into a large imbalance. Now in our time the male and female are more in balance. But it is still an issue that emancipation hasn’t finished yet. We are convinced; as long as Lilith stays in the ocean, feminism will remain.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion & Society: MEN FASHION VERSUS WOMAN FASHION

The following post is written on January 27th, 2015. I wrote this post by myself for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about fashion & society.

Today we have read an article about the differences between the menswear fashion weeks and the women wear fashion weeks. Apparently there are a lot of questions about the amount of people who come to the shows and also how many celebrities show up. Did you even know menswear fashion weeks existed? Well, they do.

The fashion weeks are coming to an end this edition. Thanks to, for instance Rick Owens; the menswear fashion week in Paris got a big boost and also more knowledge because of his peepholes. Men fashion is relatively less familiar than women’s fashion, but why? Is it because men are less interested in fashion? Mostly when people hear the word fashion, they think about women’s clothing, but the men do matter. 

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Here at the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week we noticed that the amount of menswear shows are few. Besides, the men collections are shown in the smaller spaces at the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week. Most people are invited to the women’s collections where mostly women do show up. Men who come to the fashion shows are mostly androgynous; they wear heels, make-up and have long hair. 

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Something that can be said about this remarkable fact is that the female collections are responsible for the biggest part of the turnovers the fashion brands depend on. So this is why the female collections get more attention and why they can be marked as ‘more important’- it’s a pure financial matter.

So the last question we ask you, what is really the intention of fashion weeks? Money, fame and attention or showing the real magnificent talents of designers?