Dissolved Clothing

Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week
Jef Montes – Friday 15 January 2016

‘Resolver’ is the name of Jef Montes’ fall/winter 2016 collection.

Blue lighting lit up the whole space before the show started, blue ‘boxes’ laid at the beginning of the catwalk. When the music started, models appeared and took place on these ‘boxes’ while two others threw water towards them. Their clothing was wet and slowly torn into smaller streaks of fabric till no fabric at all during their journey walking down the catwalk. This gave a beautiful effect and an almost complete naked view of the models. Some of the models walked down the catwalk holding a balloon filled with water, as if they were pregnant, and they let it burst halfway. One of the models during the show was actually pregnant and showed her belly with pride.

What they were wearing?

Jef Montes is known for his use of new types of materials for every collection. For this collection he used a material that felt like glue, which dissolved when it mixed with water. The pieces the models were wearing were grey, gleaming and loose around their bodies, like draped pieces of clothing. Everything was one piece and the models were naked underneath.

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What is the message?

This collection is a critical response to the fast and on-going fashion world these days. It’s a ‘solution’, literally; the clothing dissolved, for today’s fashion that apparently died. What is fashion nowadays, what is still standing when it comes to the fashion industry?

Personally, I thought this fashion show was about women. Carrying new life insight them, an innocent creature with no idea what the world looks like, no expectations or judgments about it. Carrying a child inside a body is a humongous responsibility and privilege to have as a woman. I thought we were pulled back to the beginning of life, during this show, because the world around us is evolving extremely quickly, technology and fashion as well, are on-going processes.

Without clothes, we’re all the same. We’re equal, especially with no material objects, everybody has a body, a mind and soul, this is here where it all begins, right?!

Photos: Judith Kutschenreuter

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How to survive Fashion week

Hello there lovely readers,

This post is for all the fashion lovers out there, because today I am writing to you about ‘how to survive Fashion week’. In this post you will read tips and tricks and my personal experiences during Fashion weeks. I hope this post will be helpful for some of you who are planning to attend a Fashion week and for the rest of you just for fun to read.

Firstly, what you don’t want to forget during Fashion week is a camera. You may not be one of the photographers in the press box at the end of a runway. But, you will be able to make some beautiful shots during shows from where you are sitting.

If you don’t have very nice seats, if you’re seated higher up for example, try to sit on the outside next to some stairs so you can climb down with your camera to shot some photos.

Also, there are interesting people walking around everywhere. This is the perfect opportunity to gain some style inspiration.

Are you planning on wearing heels? Think twice… Of course you should wear heels! But, if you’re not one of the influencers and you’re not picked up by a taxi and brought home by a taxi, I recommend bringing some flats or sneakers. Unless you’re a pro obviously.

Furthermore, don’t bring along all your possessions! Most of the time there are cloakrooms, in the Netherlands at least. But it’s crowdie; everyone is trying to find their receipts. There are always those persons who received there coats and bags but just LOVE to stand in your way.

There are three types (probably more) of people at Fashion week. Firstly the ones who are sitting front row at every show and you probably have seen all over the Internet or in magazines. The influencers and famous people, who are important for designers and publicity. Second, the extravagant group of human beings who try to be important but really, they are just trying too hard and yes everybody notices them, it’s kind of hard not to see them and these persons just want to be interesting and looked at.

And thirdly, ‘normal’ stylish people, probably you and me. They are dressed properly in clothes they find comfortable and Fashion week worthy and are actually at Fashion week with a purpose. Either for doing research and analysing the show, or photographing shows, street style etc.

So everything summed up:

  • Bring your camera (if you have one)!
  • Bring some extra flat shoes if you have to travel I bit further, or by bus and train.
  • Don’t bring too much of your possessions, so wear a lighter coat and bring a smaller bag or clutch where you can also fit your belongings in.
  • Keep your eyes open for all the interesting styles you see, for your own inspiration.
  • Don’t be scared to introduce yourself to people you see at Fashion week. You don’t have anything to lose. Try to talk to people you can have benefits from later on.
  • Don’t be caught of guard by all the impressions you’ll have, because your first time, there are a lot!
  • Wear clothes YOU feel comfortable in! This is so important; you don’t want to feel uncomfortable and insecure.

Thank you for reading and till next time!

Love,

Judith

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Shows: FUTURE GENERATION

The following post is written on July 14th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Jazz Kuipers and Jef Montes’ fashion shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015.

The ‘Future Generation’ show contained two parts: two catwalk shows and an exposition of five different designers. These designers gave their personal vision on the future of fashion, creating unique worlds where fashion is as serious as it seems relative.
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White lights and fog appeared at the beginning of the catwalk. Dark music began to play when the ‘warriors’ of Jazz Kuipers appeared one by one out of the fog with a truculent look on their faces. Jazz Kuipers showed her collection ‘TWO’. The male models were dressed in black architectonic clothing with a lot of leather. They looked raw and tough. Some of them wore face-concealing masks. Our feeling of the future after seeing this show is dark and truculent.
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A boat sailing through the wild ocean fighting against the rough waves appeared on the screen while shrieking, irregular sounds were screaming through the room. It felt like we were on a boat floating through the wild ocean that seemed to sink. The first model walked down the catwalk, dressed in a white dress with a white balloon in her hands. The balloon cracked and the water splashed over her dress. This is where the show began. Jef Montes showed his ‘Velero’ collection, which means sailboat in Spanish. The clothing was mostly white, but some of the items were black and blue. The silhouettes were organic and had imperfect details.
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White can mean the end of life but it can also be seen as the beginning of a new life. Water was clearly an important subject during this show. Water is unpredictable, just like our future, and water could be one of our dooming scenarios in the future. Jazz and Jef showed us architectonic fashion versus organic fashion in one night. Are we ready for this future?

Spring/Summer ’16 events: GETTING INTO THE FASHION WEEK SPIRIT

The following post is written on July 11th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about the downtown event; Zalando Fashion House, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015.

When we arrived at the Zalando Fashion House event the atmosphere changed into a relaxed and summery beach vibe. There was a terrace ‘outside’ and the drinks were flowing. The terrace and delicious drinks gave everybody the chance to talk about the interesting pieces, made by the designer Zyanya Keizer. There was an opportunity to get ready for the fashion shows; the make-up studio did the make-up and hair for anyone interested.

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There was a ‘fashion truck’ that gave us insights in Zyanya’s inspiration for her new collection. On the walls were images of African tribes with fitting colour and material samples. She showed three dresses of her previous collections, but what grabbed our attention was the central piece of her latest collection; an off-white dress with accessory piece, both with organic shapes and interesting structures. This appeared to be the showpiece of her latest collection.

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Zalando presented two racks with clothing and accessories of their summer collection, which is available on their website. They were made of soft, floating and light materials. The colours were mostly light pink, white and brown. The clothing fitted with the whole ambience.

During this event we had a short conversation with Zyanya about her latest collection, which will be shown the 10th of July at the Mercedes-Benz Amsterdam Fashion week. She told us she is involved with the ‘African albino foundation’. This wasn’t only her inspiration, because she also supports this foundation. She will auction some of her pieces and donate the proceeds.

This event was a start of the Uptown Fashion Shows, to get into the fashion week spirit. We are looking forward to the upcoming Uptown Fashion shows and after this event in particular Zyanya Keizer’s show.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion Show: LINGERIE ACTION ROLE PLAYING

The following post is written on January 28th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Pretty Wild Lingerie’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

The show started, big white letters appeared on the screens saying: ‘Pretty Wild lingerie’. Thrilling music was pumping out of the speakers. The first model showed up on the catwalk. Dressed in a black with pink-laced corset and black with pink-strapped knee tights, full of confidence she walked down the catwalk. 

‘The concept is simple: it’s all about emotion and feelings wrapped up in a beautiful box.’  

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The collection was an equal mix between romantic pieces of lace combined with sexy, edgy leather details. This mix exactly subscribes the way woman would like to feel nowadays. Women don’t want to be seen as sex symbols, but on the other hand they still do want to look attractive. This collection symbolized the perfect balance.

By wearing this kind of lingerie a woman can empathize better with some kind of sexiness she want to act like. The experience than becomes more real and increases their self-esteem. This is the reason why wearing several lingerie garments perfectly fit in with the experience economy.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion Show: TROUBLE IN PARADISE

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Dennis Diem’s fashion show, one of my favorite shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

We all know Adam and Eve, but do you know Lilith? She was the first woman God assigned to Adam. God created Lilith just like Adam from earth. However, when they got intimate, Adam wanted Lilith to lie underneath him, which means, that she would submit to him. She refused, because she was equivalent to Adam. And then there was trouble in Paradise.

Image: Peter Stigter

During Dennis Diem’s fashion show Lilith, the nightly demon, appeared floating on the moon while the models walked down the catwalk. The collection was fully based on the story of Lilith and therefore also with the earth and feminism. The silhouettes remind us of the style of the perfect 1950’s housewife, contrasted with wide-hemmed masculine pants and tuxedo jackets. On the garments we saw the rainbow elytra’s of a beetle which was embroidered in a snake scale pattern. These snake scales refer to Lilith, because she is symbolically rolled up like a snake in our unconscious. The flowers on the suits and dresses were made from pearl shells. These pearl shells refer to Lilith because she decided to flee from Paradise away to the waters of the ocean. Where she still lives today..

Image: Peter Stigter

The women has been “underneath” for thousand years. She is trapped in a role imposed by cultures and religion. This made the male and female fall into a large imbalance. Now in our time the male and female are more in balance. But it is still an issue that emancipation hasn’t finished yet. We are convinced; as long as Lilith stays in the ocean, feminism will remain.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Events: UNIQUE GOODS AND CULTURAL DREAMS

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about a downtown event during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

Local goods and fashion, a nice combination on a Sunday afternoon. Walk around ‘De Hallen’ and you will see an amount of stands with fashion, jewellery and beauty products. But these products are not just regular products, you won’t find anything ordinary on this market. Every product, every label has a story waiting and wanting to be told. Vintage, homemade, organic, you name it. Every story is different but equally inspiring.

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What we thought was most inspiring, was the ‘young designers’ area. A number of young individuals showed their designs and visions. Visions on design as well as their vision on life and how to live it; your way. Don’t worry about opinions or standards, dare to be different and ‘It’s ok to be fake’ . Also, the importance and inspiration of different cultures was shown, open up and see the world through different eyes. Be an individual and let the rest be individuals as well!

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Judith van Vliet, a young fashion designer with a great passion for fashion. Judith showed pieces of her latest collection during the local goods market fashion edition. Her collection was made in collaboration with Chris van den Elzen. Chris designed the shoes, which are 3D printed. The clothes are inspired on decayed buildings, turning into pieces of stone covered in flowers, moss and plants. She finds the contradiction between organic things and architecture interesting, organic versus technology. Everything Judith designs is handmade and she does everything herself.

We’ve seen a lot of young designers who follow their dreams, create unique designs while being aware of sustainability.

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Photos taken by me.

Streetstyle: WE DRESS HOW WE FEEL

The following post is written on January 24th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about streetstyle during the events at the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

Oliver Gonzalez ‘’I bought my clothes in Denmark but I currently live in The Netherlands. I never check if my outfit fits, I just wear whatever I want. In my private life I love to work as a DJ. I just dress to the occasion, so there’s not really something that gives me inspiration.’’

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Rolf Kok ‘’My boyfriend is a digital art designer so the sweater I’m wearing is Art and Fashion combined. I normally dress the way I feels, but I do sometimes combine my outfit with my boyfriend. Fashion makes me very happy so that’s what I want to show the world.. I find it very funny to see that people dress their age, but I don’t want that. I want to dress the way I feel.’’

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Vancha ‘’I like to dress the way I feel and that is how I want to present myself. I get inspiration mostly from the streets and Instagram. I don’t particularly look at signs I just see something when it looks good and that’s what I think is cool. I mostly wear black but only black can be boring sometimes, so I add something just like this sweater.’’

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Theun ‘I love the darkness and don’t show my feelings, so black is my favourite colour.
Because black is my colour, I wear it everyday and combine it with everything minimalistic. I normally choose one piece and from there I style the rest. Swedish bloggers are my inspiration.’

Theun

Photos taken by me.

Fashion & Society: CULTURAL MIXTURES MERGE AS ONE

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about fashion & society.

Yesterday we saw different shows with unique designers, all with their own view on fashion and design. Despite their own vision, they all had one over-all thing in common: cultural influences. Propagating your roots or interest in other cultures is something that stood out today during the shows.

Marga Weimans went back to her Surinamese Roots with her documentary FASHION HOUSE. She showed true craftsmanship and paid attention to the whole creative process based on her culture. While culture creates an interesting mix, it also shows influences and a contrast between the actual roles of men and women. Was the fashion show of Army of me a battle or some kind of fight against the fact that men are often getting more and more feminine nowadays? Men do feel the need to protect themselves and also go back to their roots. Dennis Diem used also an iconic historical theme: Adam and Eve. He extricated how Lilith (the first woman God assigned to Adam) didn’t feel equivalent towards Adam. This story is where all actual cultural developments find their origin.

These developments between how countries collaborate with one and another can also lead to cultural chaos instead of similarities. This is where Frampesca has made good use of in her collection by using fabrics and patterns that had never met before. The vision of Frampesca is that diversity is essential and that it provides inspiration. What also can be said about collaborations between different cultures is that it makes designers independent as well as more reliant with each other.

Something that can be said is that cultural influences make developments happen but from time to time we want to go back to our roots and find inspiration in the origin.

Downtown fashion week July 2014: NOTHING IS WHAT IT SEEMS

The following post is written on July 11TH, 2014. I wrote this for the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week’s website. Check it out here: http://www.fashionweek.nl/en/news/nothing-is-what-it-seems

The seventh day of Zalando presents 10 Days Downtown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was held in Dansmakers aan ‘t IJ, a little theatre in the north of Amsterdam. Fashion, music and dance came together last night.

The evening opened with a pianistic performance from Karel van Laere. When the lights went out, a white catwalk emerged in the room with black music notes made of rope. A sewing machine on top of the piano started to sew and Karel started to play the piano. Meanwhile a film was playing that slowly showed the notes being written whilst he played.

Afterwards we were taken to the back of the room where a show started by fashion designer Natalie de Koning. Three pairs of women were standing on the dance floor, holding each other tight, as if they couldn’t let each other go. Two women in the middle slowly started to dance; they were dressed in skin-toned underwear. The dance was intimate and got more intents and quicker by the minute. As the dance got more intents, the two other pairs dressed in clothes by Natalie de Koning, started to move slowly away from each other. They walked around on the dance floor so all the visitors were able to lay their eyes on Natalie’s designs. This dance performance was choreographies by Marie Goeminne.

As we turned around, a woman dressed in a design by Dennis Diem was sitting on another dance floor. Just a spotlight shining on her and smoke all around her gave it a mysterious vibe. The dress she was wearing was black with a corset of sequins and the massive skirt made of tulle. When the music started she stood up and got out of the dress. The black sky-high heels on her feet appeared, complicated shoes are one of Diem’s signatures. The dancer walked away from the dress and fell down. It looked like she broke her ankles but she threw her legs up in the air and got up again. This performance was mysterious and the woman danced like a beautiful black swan.

All the guests were drawn into the performances because of the engrossing atmosphere. This location fitted well with the performances and music, dance and last but not least, fashion came perfectly together last night.

Photos partly taken by me.

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