Dissolved Clothing

Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week
Jef Montes – Friday 15 January 2016

‘Resolver’ is the name of Jef Montes’ fall/winter 2016 collection.

Blue lighting lit up the whole space before the show started, blue ‘boxes’ laid at the beginning of the catwalk. When the music started, models appeared and took place on these ‘boxes’ while two others threw water towards them. Their clothing was wet and slowly torn into smaller streaks of fabric till no fabric at all during their journey walking down the catwalk. This gave a beautiful effect and an almost complete naked view of the models. Some of the models walked down the catwalk holding a balloon filled with water, as if they were pregnant, and they let it burst halfway. One of the models during the show was actually pregnant and showed her belly with pride.

What they were wearing?

Jef Montes is known for his use of new types of materials for every collection. For this collection he used a material that felt like glue, which dissolved when it mixed with water. The pieces the models were wearing were grey, gleaming and loose around their bodies, like draped pieces of clothing. Everything was one piece and the models were naked underneath.

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What is the message?

This collection is a critical response to the fast and on-going fashion world these days. It’s a ‘solution’, literally; the clothing dissolved, for today’s fashion that apparently died. What is fashion nowadays, what is still standing when it comes to the fashion industry?

Personally, I thought this fashion show was about women. Carrying new life insight them, an innocent creature with no idea what the world looks like, no expectations or judgments about it. Carrying a child inside a body is a humongous responsibility and privilege to have as a woman. I thought we were pulled back to the beginning of life, during this show, because the world around us is evolving extremely quickly, technology and fashion as well, are on-going processes.

Without clothes, we’re all the same. We’re equal, especially with no material objects, everybody has a body, a mind and soul, this is here where it all begins, right?!

Photos: Judith Kutschenreuter

How to survive Fashion week

Hello there lovely readers,

This post is for all the fashion lovers out there, because today I am writing to you about ‘how to survive Fashion week’. In this post you will read tips and tricks and my personal experiences during Fashion weeks. I hope this post will be helpful for some of you who are planning to attend a Fashion week and for the rest of you just for fun to read.

Firstly, what you don’t want to forget during Fashion week is a camera. You may not be one of the photographers in the press box at the end of a runway. But, you will be able to make some beautiful shots during shows from where you are sitting.

If you don’t have very nice seats, if you’re seated higher up for example, try to sit on the outside next to some stairs so you can climb down with your camera to shot some photos.

Also, there are interesting people walking around everywhere. This is the perfect opportunity to gain some style inspiration.

Are you planning on wearing heels? Think twice… Of course you should wear heels! But, if you’re not one of the influencers and you’re not picked up by a taxi and brought home by a taxi, I recommend bringing some flats or sneakers. Unless you’re a pro obviously.

Furthermore, don’t bring along all your possessions! Most of the time there are cloakrooms, in the Netherlands at least. But it’s crowdie; everyone is trying to find their receipts. There are always those persons who received there coats and bags but just LOVE to stand in your way.

There are three types (probably more) of people at Fashion week. Firstly the ones who are sitting front row at every show and you probably have seen all over the Internet or in magazines. The influencers and famous people, who are important for designers and publicity. Second, the extravagant group of human beings who try to be important but really, they are just trying too hard and yes everybody notices them, it’s kind of hard not to see them and these persons just want to be interesting and looked at.

And thirdly, ‘normal’ stylish people, probably you and me. They are dressed properly in clothes they find comfortable and Fashion week worthy and are actually at Fashion week with a purpose. Either for doing research and analysing the show, or photographing shows, street style etc.

So everything summed up:

  • Bring your camera (if you have one)!
  • Bring some extra flat shoes if you have to travel I bit further, or by bus and train.
  • Don’t bring too much of your possessions, so wear a lighter coat and bring a smaller bag or clutch where you can also fit your belongings in.
  • Keep your eyes open for all the interesting styles you see, for your own inspiration.
  • Don’t be scared to introduce yourself to people you see at Fashion week. You don’t have anything to lose. Try to talk to people you can have benefits from later on.
  • Don’t be caught of guard by all the impressions you’ll have, because your first time, there are a lot!
  • Wear clothes YOU feel comfortable in! This is so important; you don’t want to feel uncomfortable and insecure.

Thank you for reading and till next time!

Love,

Judith

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Shows: FUTURE GENERATION

The following post is written on July 14th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Jazz Kuipers and Jef Montes’ fashion shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015.

The ‘Future Generation’ show contained two parts: two catwalk shows and an exposition of five different designers. These designers gave their personal vision on the future of fashion, creating unique worlds where fashion is as serious as it seems relative.
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White lights and fog appeared at the beginning of the catwalk. Dark music began to play when the ‘warriors’ of Jazz Kuipers appeared one by one out of the fog with a truculent look on their faces. Jazz Kuipers showed her collection ‘TWO’. The male models were dressed in black architectonic clothing with a lot of leather. They looked raw and tough. Some of them wore face-concealing masks. Our feeling of the future after seeing this show is dark and truculent.
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A boat sailing through the wild ocean fighting against the rough waves appeared on the screen while shrieking, irregular sounds were screaming through the room. It felt like we were on a boat floating through the wild ocean that seemed to sink. The first model walked down the catwalk, dressed in a white dress with a white balloon in her hands. The balloon cracked and the water splashed over her dress. This is where the show began. Jef Montes showed his ‘Velero’ collection, which means sailboat in Spanish. The clothing was mostly white, but some of the items were black and blue. The silhouettes were organic and had imperfect details.
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White can mean the end of life but it can also be seen as the beginning of a new life. Water was clearly an important subject during this show. Water is unpredictable, just like our future, and water could be one of our dooming scenarios in the future. Jazz and Jef showed us architectonic fashion versus organic fashion in one night. Are we ready for this future?

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Show: READY TO WEAR

The following post is written on July 11th, 2015. I wrote this post on my own for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about FUTURA’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015. Minimalistic mens fashion.

We stepped into another world, which felt like a disco. Loud music was pumping out of the speakers and purple and blue lights illuminated the room. In the centre of the room stood a turntable where two DJs were playing live music. The front of the turntable was covered in big white letters, which said ‘FUTURA’.

Male models walked along the catwalk one by one. The first two models were wearing colourful outfits, shorts and a jacket in pink and turquoise with high sport socks and shoes. Because of the colours, these first two outfits stood out to us. Further clothes from this collection were mainly white, black and blue. Variations of t-shirts with shorts, to firm coats with long trousers made of sturdy denim fabric. The tops’ and jackets’ silhouettes were straight and square. The t-shirts had a graphic design and some jackets had visible stitching, which both created a graphic effect.

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The models were quite normal, just like the clothes they were wearing. The entire collection was ‘ready-to-wear’, minimalistic and sporty. The music was loud and the models walked quickly.

The designers of FUTURA are young and creative. They found an innovative way to partly finance this fashion show, namely ‘Crowdfunding’. A couple of weeks before their fashion show FUTURA was selling t-shirts and sweaters on their website. This money was used to finance the fashion show. In addition, the public and people of interests immediately were involved. This shows that young creative designers are not afraid to use creative ways to show their talents to the world.

Photos taken by me.

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Show: WHITE AFRICA

The following post is written on July 11th, 2015. I wrote this post for the website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Zyanya Keizer’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015. It was an amazing show.

All white everything in African style. The catwalk was covered with white flour and above the catwalk dangled three airy canvases. Amidst this white ambiance stood just one dark African model. She was covered in a strong structured white dress with her head behind a mask.

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In this extraordinary setting the other models were different from the African one. The models were white-skinned and their foreheads were painted in orange. Their hair was braided and coloured white. The collection of Zyanya Keizer consists of light and earthy colours, like white, brown and grey. Notable was the wide variety in shapes and materials. Beads, little balls and strings graced the garments. There was a clear contrast between soft loose-fittings and hard structured pieces. In many of the garments organic forms were visible. Zyanya does often take inspiration from the connection between man and nature and this characteristic was clear to see. This collection was definitely based on influences and the improbability of Mother Nature.

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After seeing the white models in an African setting it became clear that Zyanya wanted to pay attention to a social problem. A major social problem in Africa is the aversion that prevails against albinos. According to many Africans an albino goes against nature. Today the white skin models occurred as the African albino. Our nature can be improbable and this improbability was visible today, the albinos were in the majority.

With this collection Zyanya will support the African albinos. Next week there will be an auction where different garments will be acutioned. The money will be given to the Foundation for African Albinos.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Spring/Summer ’16 Fashion Shows: DIVING DEEP

The following post is written on July 9th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about fashion show of Judith van Vliet x Chris van den Elzen, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week July 2015.

On the opening night of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Judith van Vliet and Chris van den Elzen presented their second collaboration called ‘Dark Depths’.

The oceans are the lungs of our planet, which are contaminated by humanity with trash and chemicals. People are not aware that de dark depths of the see have many secrets, and that the dark water holds unknown knowledge. In a darkness where time does not exist, a world full of secrets is hidden. This was the inspiration for the show tonight.

Judith van Vliet x Chris van den Elzen by Trendpit

The show started with some pink lights, like little fishes in the ocean. When the first model appeared, the room was still in darkness. It felt like we were deep down in the ocean. She was wearing a dress, with an armour that was glowing in the dark. In the middle of the catwalk she stopped, the lights turned on and the music started. The music consisted of noises that we associated with the depth of the ocean and submarine sounds. During the show we saw the glowing in the dark in every outfit, combined with the colours black, blue and coral. While some outfits were really light and floating, others where heavy and knitted.

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The outfits designed by Judith van Vliet were styled with the shoes of Chris van den Elzen, which seemed to us as a modern day interpretation of the jelly sandals.

The show was a perfect combination of 3D-printing and craftsmanship and a perfect combination of two young talented designers.

We think, in a time where we seem to forget about the oceans and what we are doing to them, we need reminders as these. By making the creatures of the oceans look human, we feel more responsible for this important part of nature. We can not wait to step in to a submarine and find out what is really hidden in the depths of the oceans!

Photos: Trendpit

Fashion Show: LINGERIE ACTION ROLE PLAYING

The following post is written on January 28th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Pretty Wild Lingerie’s fashion show, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

The show started, big white letters appeared on the screens saying: ‘Pretty Wild lingerie’. Thrilling music was pumping out of the speakers. The first model showed up on the catwalk. Dressed in a black with pink-laced corset and black with pink-strapped knee tights, full of confidence she walked down the catwalk. 

‘The concept is simple: it’s all about emotion and feelings wrapped up in a beautiful box.’  

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The collection was an equal mix between romantic pieces of lace combined with sexy, edgy leather details. This mix exactly subscribes the way woman would like to feel nowadays. Women don’t want to be seen as sex symbols, but on the other hand they still do want to look attractive. This collection symbolized the perfect balance.

By wearing this kind of lingerie a woman can empathize better with some kind of sexiness she want to act like. The experience than becomes more real and increases their self-esteem. This is the reason why wearing several lingerie garments perfectly fit in with the experience economy.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Fashion Show: TROUBLE IN PARADISE

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about Dennis Diem’s fashion show, one of my favorite shows, during the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

We all know Adam and Eve, but do you know Lilith? She was the first woman God assigned to Adam. God created Lilith just like Adam from earth. However, when they got intimate, Adam wanted Lilith to lie underneath him, which means, that she would submit to him. She refused, because she was equivalent to Adam. And then there was trouble in Paradise.

Image: Peter Stigter

During Dennis Diem’s fashion show Lilith, the nightly demon, appeared floating on the moon while the models walked down the catwalk. The collection was fully based on the story of Lilith and therefore also with the earth and feminism. The silhouettes remind us of the style of the perfect 1950’s housewife, contrasted with wide-hemmed masculine pants and tuxedo jackets. On the garments we saw the rainbow elytra’s of a beetle which was embroidered in a snake scale pattern. These snake scales refer to Lilith, because she is symbolically rolled up like a snake in our unconscious. The flowers on the suits and dresses were made from pearl shells. These pearl shells refer to Lilith because she decided to flee from Paradise away to the waters of the ocean. Where she still lives today..

Image: Peter Stigter

The women has been “underneath” for thousand years. She is trapped in a role imposed by cultures and religion. This made the male and female fall into a large imbalance. Now in our time the male and female are more in balance. But it is still an issue that emancipation hasn’t finished yet. We are convinced; as long as Lilith stays in the ocean, feminism will remain.

Photos: Team Peter Stigter

Streetstyle: WE DRESS HOW WE FEEL

The following post is written on January 24th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about streetstyle during the events at the Mercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week January 2015.

Oliver Gonzalez ‘’I bought my clothes in Denmark but I currently live in The Netherlands. I never check if my outfit fits, I just wear whatever I want. In my private life I love to work as a DJ. I just dress to the occasion, so there’s not really something that gives me inspiration.’’

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Rolf Kok ‘’My boyfriend is a digital art designer so the sweater I’m wearing is Art and Fashion combined. I normally dress the way I feels, but I do sometimes combine my outfit with my boyfriend. Fashion makes me very happy so that’s what I want to show the world.. I find it very funny to see that people dress their age, but I don’t want that. I want to dress the way I feel.’’

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Vancha ‘’I like to dress the way I feel and that is how I want to present myself. I get inspiration mostly from the streets and Instagram. I don’t particularly look at signs I just see something when it looks good and that’s what I think is cool. I mostly wear black but only black can be boring sometimes, so I add something just like this sweater.’’

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Theun ‘I love the darkness and don’t show my feelings, so black is my favourite colour.
Because black is my colour, I wear it everyday and combine it with everything minimalistic. I normally choose one piece and from there I style the rest. Swedish bloggers are my inspiration.’

Theun

Photos taken by me.

Fashion & Society: CULTURAL MIXTURES MERGE AS ONE

The following post is written on January 26th, 2015. I wrote this post with a fellow student for our website Trendpit.nl . This post is about fashion & society.

Yesterday we saw different shows with unique designers, all with their own view on fashion and design. Despite their own vision, they all had one over-all thing in common: cultural influences. Propagating your roots or interest in other cultures is something that stood out today during the shows.

Marga Weimans went back to her Surinamese Roots with her documentary FASHION HOUSE. She showed true craftsmanship and paid attention to the whole creative process based on her culture. While culture creates an interesting mix, it also shows influences and a contrast between the actual roles of men and women. Was the fashion show of Army of me a battle or some kind of fight against the fact that men are often getting more and more feminine nowadays? Men do feel the need to protect themselves and also go back to their roots. Dennis Diem used also an iconic historical theme: Adam and Eve. He extricated how Lilith (the first woman God assigned to Adam) didn’t feel equivalent towards Adam. This story is where all actual cultural developments find their origin.

These developments between how countries collaborate with one and another can also lead to cultural chaos instead of similarities. This is where Frampesca has made good use of in her collection by using fabrics and patterns that had never met before. The vision of Frampesca is that diversity is essential and that it provides inspiration. What also can be said about collaborations between different cultures is that it makes designers independent as well as more reliant with each other.

Something that can be said is that cultural influences make developments happen but from time to time we want to go back to our roots and find inspiration in the origin.